Chinese Dragon

Whats suppose to be the tempture for chinese water dragon?

What does the tempture have to be for the chinese water dragon? i know the humditity suppose to be 80% but i forgot to ask the people at petco what the tempture was suppose to be.

Here’s a “nutshell” care guide I put together for another forum. Particularly look to the bottom for Tricia’s Water Dragon site (temps are listed in the care guide before you get to the bottom):
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Introduction

This care sheet can also be used for the Australian Water Dragon, Basilisks and Sailfin lizards. This care sheet concentrates specifically on Chinese water dragon care, however. There are some temperament differences with the other species. The Chinese water dragon is the most amiable of them all. This is an easy lizard to socialize and many even seem to ask to be let out for some interaction.

The Chinese water dragon is found in the Southeast Asian mainland. They’re mainly arboreal animals preferring trees and bushes. They’re also a diurnal animal which hunts during these daylight hours.

Colors can range from a light mint green to a very dark forest green with definitive, slanted, vertical stripes down the sides that range in colors of pale green, mint green, aqua/turquoise. As the males mature they gain an iridescent throat in the ranges of bright pinks, peach, light yellow and orange. The tail, which is heavily banded, can be used as a whip for defense, but is most often used for balance while climbing and because of it’s laterally flattened shape makes it an excellent swimmer. The heads are triangular shaped while a male’s head becomes wider as it matures into adulthood. A dark strip starts at the corner of the eye and goes back toward the ear. They do have sharp teeth, but because of their already easy-going nature, they rarely bite their humans. These lizards also have a high nuchal crest. In males this crest is taller than in females and they gain a second, very obvious mid-sagittal crest. This is also a lizard that can run on it’s back feet. They are one of several bi-pedal lizards.

The sex of young Chinese water dragons is impossible unless you get one DNA tested or probed by an experienced vet. Probing is invasive and can cause deadly results if done incorrectly. Usually you have to wait until maturity and the physical differences become apparent. This usually happens at about 18 months to 2 years. Even then it’s hard if you don’t have a comparison to look at…so search for some pictures and see if yours looks more like a female, or a male.

Like most lizards, water dragons have a third eye called the parietal eye. This is located on the very top of the head and looks like a milky scale. This is a fully functioning eye, however it is only able to detect light and dark such as shadows going overhead. This is part of their advanced warning system that allows them to see birds of prey flying over head. They act accordingly by darting into the foliage out of sight and relative safety.

Now…on to care:

Difficulty Level

Moderate. These are not a beginner lizard. Their care requirements are very specific and cost a great deal of money to set up for one right. They can be flighty as babies but usually calm down and become easy to handle fairly quickly. You have to know what to expect in their care requirements and understand if the care is not provided for properly that it could take just a matter of months, or even a few years, to die a fairly painful death.

Size

Hatchlings start out very small at 1” svl – 5” stl. Females can reach 2’ total length while males can easily reach 3’. This makes for a much more desirable size for many people to care for as opposed to the 6’ of an iguana. Almost ¾ of their total length is from their tail.

Lifespan

They can live to 20 years with the right care.

Growth

Keeping track of your water dragons growth will help you keep a handle on his health using both svl AND stl…even if the water dragon doesn’t have all of it’s tail. A water dragon that is beginning to have health issues will slow down in growth. They won’t stop, but they will not shed and grow as they would if they were healthy.

* SVL = snout vent length = nose to poop chute
* STL = snout tail length = tip to tip

For easy measuring, use a string. Starting from the nose…go to the vent and tie a knot, then tie another one at the tip of the tail. Then you can use the measuring tape to get the length from the knotted string. The water dragon cannot regenerate its tail like some lizards, so when it’s gone, it’s gone. This is really where the separate measurements of svl and stl come in handy.

Temperature

Use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer for the best accuracy. You can get these for about $15 – $20 U.S. currency. Once you get the thermometer your goal is meeting the required temperature gradients in three different spots:

* Basking: 90-95
* Ambient: 84-88
* Cool end/night time: 75-80

Without the correct temps, especially the high basking temps…all that good food going in will not get digested properly and organ functions will be trying to run on less than ideal capacity. Nutrients are lost and illness sets in. To achieve the right temps you need the right heat source. Using an incandescent light over the basking spot will do the trick. For night and seasonal cold temps, a CHE or other lightless heat source will do.

UVB

Not all UVB lights are created equal. Some decay very quickly. You need no less than two 3′ fluorescent UVB tubes or a merc vapor such as the Mega Ray. Short version – UVB helps the ig to process the calcium in their diet. Without the UVB…the calcium does not get absorbed and the result is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and renal failure. The brands to go with:

* Reptisun 5.0 or 10.0
* Iguana Light 5.0
* Exoterra 8.0
* Arcadia 5.0 (UK)
* Mega Ray EB or SB <--- http://www.reptileuv.com

Many of these can be purchased at http://www.reptiledirect.com for a more reasonable price than the pet stores. Once you provide these lights for your ig...set them in the 6" - 8" range (12" - 18" for the Mega Ray). Any farther and the UVB drops of so much that they don't do any good. Keep in mind the screen will also filter out UVB. The tighter the mesh on a screen top, the more UVB will be blocked. A note on the compacts and spirals. These are no good for large lizards and reptiles. They do not cover nearly enough of the animal to benefit them. A UVB meter is an excellent way to keep on top of your bulbs.

Some EXCELLENT sources on UVB below.

Substrate

Bark, sand and the likes may look nice...but it's horribly bad. This stuff is deadly and has killed many reptiles...not just water dragons. It causes impaction which often requires surgery to remove if found in time. It sure looks nice, but with a water dragons sticky tongue and the way they flick-lick everything...it's very easy for it to get caught. Catching it’s prey in this will often end up with a mouth full of substrate instead of the prey. It also harbors bacteria and fungi. Just go to cage carpet (Astroturf) or replace it all with newspaper, butcher paper, linoleum, etc. You can also use a sterile topsoil with a little peat moss mixed in. This also helps keep the humidity levels up while remaining reasonably safe. However, even though the topsoil says it’s sterile, back it to remove any possibility of hidden mites, molds and fungi. Bake at 250 for 20 mins to kill what might be lurking.

Diet

Baby and juvenile water dragons need to eat everyday. As they mature feedings can back down to every 2-3 days. I preferred everyday feedings so meals were cut down to smaller portions. Water dragons can become overweight if the food is too fatty and not enough exercise.

Water dragons are mainly insectivores with a small amount of greens and veggies added to the diet. According to Tricia Power of http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com The diet should be:

* Insects 40% - 50%
* Earthworms 10% - 20%
* Whole Prey 40% - 20%
* Fruit & Veggies 10% (If possible, otherwise increase % of whole prey)

Water dragons do not always take to salad stuff, but give it your best shot. Insects to feed come in a lot of varieties found in many pet stores and online. Crickets should be the main insect gutloading well with a healthy mixture. Crix are empty shells of no nutrition. They are, quite literally, what they eat as far as nutritional values. Other foods are mealworms, small-medium superworms, butterworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, earthworms, and even small feeder fish can be offered such as guppies.

Supplements

With a balanced and varied diet additional supplementation is often not necessary. However, if you cannot supply the ideal diet (to the feeder insects included) due to product availability, then supplementation is a must. A multivitamin ground up and a calcium supplement (no D3 or phosphorous) are easily found. I use an old coffee grinder and grind up everything separately and put them back in the bottle they came out of and mark it "LIZARD". Dust crix once a week with the vitamin such as ground centrum or herptivite. Calcium should be dusted over crickets every 2-3 days.

Cage Size

A 35 gal. is the minimum required size for a baby water dragon under a year old and still be able to reach the proper temperature gradients. Once your water dragon turns about a year old and is close to 2' long or more...you'll need to think about building a cage. For a full-grown water dragon you'll need a minimum of 4'T x 6'W x 2'D. Bigger is better…:-) They are active lizards and would appreciate the room. Because this is a high humidity needing species you will need a fairly enclosed design. Plywood and Plexiglas are the preferred materials of choice. Sliding glass doors are probably the best to allow for easy access, especially if room is limited for the out-swing of a hinged door. You MUST have ventilation for which a screened top will do nicely. You can set your lighting on top of the screen to keep the water dragon from reaching them.

You can use a large cardboard box for a hide, fake plants to make a kind of curtain, a towel hung over one end of the aquarium, etc.

Humidity

Using a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer w/hygrometer will help you keep on top of this. This aids in shedding and some hydration. Humidity should be 80% with periods of complete dryness to keep the chance of molds and fungi growing. Daily misting and periodic baths will also help. A water feature will be a wonderful addition such as a waterfall or shallow pool. Adding an aerator such as a fish aquarium air stone will only add to the humidity levels. Live plants will also add to the humidity, as well as being aesthetically pleasing. Be sure to research safe and toxic plants. A few non-toxic plants are: pothos, ficus tree, wandering jew, spider plant, and dracenae.

There's also an automatic drip system that some use. You can look into a fully automated drip system if you have techy abilities.

Hydration

This is not to be confused with humidity. Humidity is external while hydration is internal. Although water dragons don't absorb water the way people do, as a matter of fact they absorb almost nothing, baths and misting only really take care of the shedding. Baths can help with hydration as the head slips below the level of the water and water seeps in through the mouth. A very small amount is also soaked up through the vent (poop chute). Expect the water dragon to poop in the water...it's natural and can even be used as an excellent tool for potty training. To help with added hydration mist the salad well. You can also use your misting bottle and see if he/she will drink the squirts. The hydrating foods such as bell peppers and soft bodies insects will also help. Water dragons are quite fond of their pools and if they use this feature on a regular basis then a regular bath is not necessary.

Websites

General Care

* http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com <---by far the best on the Internet
* http://www.anapsid.org/waterdragons.html
* http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/water-dragon.php

UVB

* http://www.reptileuvinfo.com
* http://www.uvguide.co.uk
* http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/

Books

* Green Water Dragons, Sailfin Lizards and Basilisks (General Care and Maintenance of Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli
* Anoles, Basilisks and Water Dragons: A Complete Pet Care Manual (More Complete Pet Owner's Manuals) by Richard D. Bartlett, Patricia P. Bartlett
* Lizard Care from A to Z (Paperback) by Richard Bartlett and Patricia Bartlett
* Green Water Dragons: Plus Sailfin Lizards & Basilisks (Advanced Vivarium Systems) by Jerry G. Walls

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